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The wine list · Portugal's Burgundy

I found Burgundy in Portugal.

Dão sits south of the Douro wine region, south-east of Porto, and far fewer people know it. Most of my Portuguese Burgundians come from there: fresh and fine rather than big and heavy. One comes from high up in the Douro itself. These are the bottles I'd pour a Burgundy lover.

The short version

  1. 4 of my 5 come from Dão. South of the Douro wine region, and still a secret to most.
  2. Pape and Carrocel are the best I've opened. Both exceptional, both Quinta da Pellada.
  3. Altitude 430 is the Douro's Burgundy. Fresh and full of red fruit, from 430 metres up.

Drinks like Burgundy

My call, bottle by bottle

The bottles I'd pour a Burgundy lover.

From Dão

01Pape by Quinta da Pellada

Quinta da Pellada Pape

exceptional

Álvaro Castro's top red. Pure and fresh, with Pinot-like lift.

02Carrocel by Quinta da Pellada

Quinta da Pellada Carrocel

exceptional

All Touriga Nacional, only in the best years. It drinks like a masculine Burgundy.

03Jaen by Quinta da Pellada

Quinta da Pellada Jaen

really liked it

Jaen is Spain's Mencía, a grape often compared to Pinot Noir. The best value on this page.

04Pura by Textura

Textura Pura, D. Áurea, Tinta Pinheira

loved it

All three I've had are great: Pura, D. Áurea and the Textura da Estrela Tinta Pinheira. From the slopes of the Serra da Estrela.

From the Douro

05Altitude 430 by Quinta do Crasto

Quinta do Crasto Altitude 430

loved it

Tinta Francisca and Touriga Nacional from 430 metres, facing north. Lots of strawberries, and a world away from the heavier Douro. My newest find, from Douro Boys Day.

More from the Douro →

Why they drink like Burgundy

Altitude and cool nights. Dão's vineyards sit high on a granite plateau around Viseu, ringed by mountains; Crasto planted Altitude 430 at 430 metres, facing north, for the same freshness. The reds come out fresh, light on their feet and fine-grained, which is what I want from Burgundy.

Questions

Which Portuguese wine tastes most like Burgundy?
To me, Dão, south of the Douro wine region and south-east of Porto. Quinta da Pellada's Pape is pure and fresh with Pinot-like lift, Carrocel drinks like a masculine Burgundy, the Pellada Jaen is the best value, and all three Textura wines I've had are great: Pura, D. Áurea and Tinta Pinheira. From the Douro, Crasto's Altitude 430.
Where is Dão?
South of the Douro wine region and south-east of Porto, on a granite plateau around Viseu ringed by the Estrela, Caramulo and Nave mountains.
Is Dão the Burgundy of Portugal?
It is often called that, for its granite soils, high vineyards and freshness. For Pape, Carrocel, Jaen and Textura, I agree.
Does the Douro make Burgundy-style wine?
The Douro is known for bigger, darker reds. Crasto's Altitude 430 is the one I've found that drinks like Burgundy: Tinta Francisca and Touriga Nacional from north-facing vines 430 metres up, which keep it fresh and bright with red fruit.