Californios

Best Mexican food anywhere, and it isn't close — three Michelin stars, and the only Mexican restaurant to hold them. The moles are the reason to go: several of them, each completely different, and they change. The sourdough tortilla is unlike any tortilla you've had. I've been going since 2015, back at the small Mission room when they had no stars at all, and followed them to 11th Street. I've been eating their food for eleven years. The stars came later — the cooking was always there.

On my list of the Michelin three-star rooms I go back to.